When it comes to sewing, one of the most important aspects of ensuring a high‑quality finished product is choosing the right notions for your fabric. Notions, the small but essential items like thread, buttons, zippers, interfacing, and needles, play a crucial role in the durability, appearance, and functionality of your garment. However, the needs of each fabric type vary, and knowing which notions work best for specific materials is key to achieving professional results.
In this guide, we'll explore the various fabric types and match them with the right notions, helping you navigate your sewing projects with confidence and precision.
Cotton: Versatile and Easy to Work With
Ideal Notions for Cotton:
- Thread : Cotton thread is typically the best match for cotton fabrics. It offers durability and blends well with the fabric's texture. For lightweight cottons, such as quilting cotton, choose a 50‑weight cotton thread. For heavier cotton, such as canvas, opt for a thicker 30‑weight thread.
- Needles : Universal needles (size 70/10 to 90/14) work well for most cotton fabrics. For finer cottons like voile or lawn, a finer needle (size 70/10) is best, while heavier cottons like denim or canvas benefit from a slightly thicker needle (size 100/16).
- Interfacing : Lightweight fusible interfacing is ideal for adding structure to cotton blouses, shirts, or dresses. For heavier cotton fabrics, such as twill or canvas, use a medium‑ to heavyweight fusible interfacing for added stiffness.
- Zippers : A standard all‑purpose zipper is typically sufficient for cotton garments. Invisible zippers also work well for more formal cotton clothing, such as dresses or skirts.
Pro Tips:
- When working with cotton fabrics, pre‑wash them to prevent shrinking and ensure your garment fits as expected.
- If you're using a fabric with a lot of texture or patterns, be sure to match your thread and needles in a way that doesn't detract from the fabric's design.
Silk: Luxurious and Delicate
Ideal Notions for Silk:
- Thread : For silk fabrics, choose a fine, high‑quality polyester thread or silk thread to prevent snagging or tension issues. Opt for a 60‑weight thread for lightweight silks like charmeuse or chiffon, and a 40‑weight thread for heavier silks like dupioni.
- Needles : Silk fabrics require a very fine, sharp needle to avoid damaging the delicate fibers. Use a size 60/8 or 70/10 microtex needle, which is specifically designed for delicate fabrics like silk and tulle.
- Interfacing : A lightweight, fusible interfacing is perfect for silk, as it adds structure without compromising the softness of the fabric. Make sure the interfacing is fusible on one side to avoid shifting during sewing.
- Zippers : For silk garments, invisible zippers are often the best choice. These zippers are discreet and won't compete with the luxurious feel of silk.
Pro Tips:
- When sewing with silk, always test on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure you're getting the correct tension and stitch length.
- Consider hand basting or pinning carefully, as machine pins can leave holes in delicate silk.
Linen: Breathable and Casual
Ideal Notions for Linen:
- Thread : Linen thread is slightly thicker than cotton thread, so a 40‑weight linen or cotton thread is a great option. A cotton/polyester blend thread can also be used for added durability.
- Needles : Linen fabrics benefit from a universal or ballpoint needle (size 80/12 to 90/14). A ballpoint needle is great for avoiding snags or pulls in the fabric.
- Interfacing : Depending on the linen weight, you can use either a lightweight or medium‑weight fusible interfacing. For more structured linen garments like jackets, medium‑weight interfacing can help add shape without compromising breathability.
- Zippers : A standard all‑purpose zipper works well with linen. For a more polished look, consider a concealed zipper for dresses or skirts.
Pro Tips:
- Pre‑washing linen is essential, as it tends to shrink and wrinkle.
- Linen is a breathable fabric, so it's perfect for hot weather, but it can be prone to wrinkling. Consider using a wrinkle‑resistant lining or adding a lightweight lining to avoid this.
Wool: Warm and Structured
Ideal Notions for Wool:
- Thread : Wool requires a strong, durable thread, such as polyester thread or silk thread. A medium‑weight thread (40‑50 weight) works best for most wool fabrics, but you may need to adjust based on the fabric's weight.
- Needles : Use a ballpoint or universal needle (size 90/14 or 100/16) for wool fabrics. A larger needle helps avoid skipping stitches and ensures smooth sewing.
- Interfacing : Wool benefits from a medium‑ to heavyweight fusible interfacing, especially for structured garments like coats or blazers. Look for a wool‑specific interfacing for the best results.
- Zippers : A sturdy zipper is necessary for wool, especially for coats or jackets. Choose an all‑purpose zipper or a heavy‑duty zipper, depending on the thickness of your fabric.
Pro Tips:
- Always test your sewing machine tension when working with wool, as it can be a bit tricky to sew with, especially thicker varieties.
- When pressing wool, use a pressing cloth and steam to avoid damaging the fabric.
Knits: Stretchy and Comfortable
Ideal Notions for Knits:
- Thread : For knit fabrics, it's important to use a thread that can stretch with the fabric. Polyester thread works well, as it's strong and flexible. A ballpoint thread is also an excellent option for knit fabrics.
- Needles : Use a ballpoint or stretch needle (size 70/10 to 90/14) when working with knit fabrics. These needles have a rounded tip that slides between the fibers without creating snags or holes.
- Interfacing : Since knits already have natural stretch, you may not need much interfacing. For more structure, use fusible tricot interfacing, which maintains the fabric's flexibility while providing support.
- Zippers : Knits generally don't require zippers, but if you do use one, make sure to select a stretchy zipper or invisible zipper that allows for movement.
Pro Tips:
- When sewing with knits, use a walking foot or a stretch stitch to help manage the fabric's stretch and prevent puckering.
- Consider using a twin needle for hems to achieve a professional finish that stretches with the fabric.
Denim: Sturdy and Classic
Ideal Notions for Denim:
- Thread : Denim requires a strong, durable thread. A heavy‑duty cotton or polyester thread (40 weight or heavier) works well to handle the thickness of the fabric.
- Needles : A denim needle (size 90/14 or 100/16) is designed specifically for heavy fabrics like denim. The needle has a thicker shaft and a tapered point, allowing it to easily penetrate the dense weave.
- Interfacing : Heavyweight fusible interfacing is ideal for adding structure to denim garments like jackets or skirts. It adds durability without affecting the fabric's rigidity.
- Zippers : A sturdy, heavy‑duty zipper is essential for denim garments like jeans. Choose a metal zipper for the most authentic, durable finish.
Pro Tips:
- Use a walking foot when sewing denim to prevent the fabric from shifting or bunching.
- When topstitching, use a thicker thread and increase your stitch length for a bold, professional finish.
Conclusion
Choosing the right notions for your fabric is a key part of the sewing process. By selecting appropriate thread, needles, interfacing, and zippers based on the fabric type, you can ensure your garment is both functional and stylish. Understanding the unique needs of fabrics like cotton, silk, linen, wool, knits, and denim will allow you to make more informed decisions and help you achieve better results in your sewing projects.
Take your time to experiment with different combinations of notions and fabrics, and don't hesitate to test on scrap fabric before diving into your main project. With the right notions, your sewing endeavors will not only be more enjoyable but will also yield beautifully crafted garments that stand the test of time. Happy sewing!