For those new to the world of sewing, the pattern envelope can seem like a confusing jumble of symbols, lines, and instructions. However, these symbols are not just there to confuse---they serve a vital purpose in guiding sewists through the process of creating their garments. Whether you're working with a commercial sewing pattern or a custom design, understanding sewing pattern symbols is crucial to ensuring a smooth and successful project.
In this guide, we will decode the most common symbols found on sewing patterns, offering a quick and clear reference to help you read and understand them with ease. These symbols are the key to mastering the language of sewing and elevating your crafting skills to the next level.
Why Sewing Pattern Symbols Matter
Sewing patterns are designed to provide detailed instructions for assembling garments or projects. These instructions are typically accompanied by symbols that represent various sewing steps, fabric handling techniques, and garment details.
The reason these symbols exist is to standardize communication in the sewing world. Since patterns are often used globally and can be read by sewers of all levels, it's essential to have a universal system of symbols that everyone can understand.
Once you become familiar with these symbols, you'll find that they make sewing much easier and more intuitive, reducing errors and helping you achieve professional-quality results.
Common Symbols and Their Meanings
1. Grainline Arrow
- What it looks like: A long arrow with a line running parallel to it.
- What it means: The grainline arrow indicates how to align the pattern piece with the fabric's grain. It's crucial to follow the grainline to ensure the fabric's fibers run in the correct direction, which will help your garment drape and stretch as intended.
- Where you'll see it: On every pattern piece that requires fabric cutting.
2. Cutting Line
- What it looks like: A solid or dashed line around each pattern piece.
- What it means: The cutting line is the outline of the pattern piece. This is the line you will cut along when preparing your fabric. It's important to note that some patterns will include multiple cutting lines for different sizes, so be sure to follow the line corresponding to your chosen size.
3. Notches
- What they look like: Small triangular or square cuts on the pattern edges.
- What they mean: Notches are important for matching up pieces of fabric during assembly. They help you align edges, such as the side seams or the center back of a garment. Typically, you'll see notches on the neckline, armholes, and along the sides of pants or dresses.
- Where you'll see them: Along the cutting line, indicating key areas where pieces should be matched or aligned.
4. Sewing Line
- What it looks like: A dashed line that is usually about ⅜" (1 cm) inside the cutting line.
- What it means: The sewing line shows where you should stitch your fabric. If your pattern includes a seam allowance, the sewing line is the place to sew, while the cutting line marks where you should trim the fabric.
5. Dotted or Dashed Line (Stitching Line)
- What it looks like: A line made up of dashed or dotted segments.
- What it means: This line indicates the suggested stitching area, often used for curves or seam allowances. When assembling your garment, sew along this line to achieve the right fit and structure.
6. Buttonhole Marks
- What they look like: Small circles or rectangles with a diagonal line inside them.
- What it means: These symbols mark where to make buttonholes on a garment. Typically, they are placed on both the front and back of garments that require buttons, such as shirts, blouses, and dresses.
7. Pleat Marks
- What they look like: A series of parallel lines, sometimes accompanied by a "V" shape.
- What it means: Pleat marks indicate where fabric should be folded or pleated. These marks will tell you which direction to fold the fabric and where to stitch to create pleats for a more structured or decorative finish.
Additional Symbols: Sewing Construction and Finishes
1. Zipper Placement
- What it looks like: A symbol resembling a small zipper or a dashed line with zipper teeth indicated on the pattern.
- What it means: This symbol shows the location where a zipper should be sewn into the garment, typically on dresses, skirts, or pants.
2. Fold Line
- What it looks like: A thin dashed or solid line with an arrow pointing towards the edge of the fabric.
- What it means: The fold line indicates where you should fold the fabric before cutting the pattern piece. For example, a back bodice piece may require you to fold the fabric in half before cutting it, allowing the piece to be symmetrical.
3. Hem Line
- What it looks like: A solid line, often with markings indicating where to fold the fabric for the hem.
- What it means: This line shows where to fold the fabric for hemming, or where to create the finishing edge at the bottom of a garment.
4. Pleat or Dart Marking
- What it looks like: A pair of lines with an arrow or "X" at the top.
- What it means: This symbol marks where pleats or darts should be made, directing you to create folds or tucks that shape the garment. These markings are critical in fitting, especially for items like dresses and blouses.
Advanced Symbols for Specialized Techniques
1. Interfacing
- What it looks like: A small square or rectangle symbol with "IF" or "Interfacing" written inside it.
- What it means: Interfacing is a fabric used to add structure or stiffness to certain areas of the garment, like collars, cuffs, or waistbands. The pattern will indicate which areas require interfacing, as well as the type (fusible or non‑fusible).
2. Bias Tape/Binding Marks
- What it looks like: A line with a wavy or zigzag symbol near the edge.
- What it means: This symbol shows where to apply bias tape or binding along edges that need extra reinforcement or a finished look, such as armholes or necklines.
3. Fabric Type and Layout
- What it looks like: A fabric symbol or "fabric required" written in the instructions.
- What it means: This section tells you which fabric to use for the garment and the fabric layout on the pattern pieces. Some patterns may suggest specific fabric types like cotton, linen, or stretch fabrics, which will influence how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.
Interpreting Pattern Instructions
While symbols are vital for understanding how to assemble a garment, sewing patterns also include written instructions. These often explain how to prepare the fabric, how to assemble the pieces, and how to finish the seams and hems. Always read through these instructions carefully before starting your project. Many patterns also include tips or techniques specific to the design, such as how to attach a lining or insert a zipper.
Tips for Sewing with Patterns
- Use a Light Box for Tracing : If your pattern is on tissue paper and you're concerned about tearing it, use a light box to trace the symbols and lines onto sturdier paper or fabric.
- Mark Fabric Pieces : As you cut your fabric, it's helpful to transfer pattern markings to the fabric with chalk or fabric markers. This will ensure you can follow the symbols easily during sewing.
- Consult the Pattern Key : Every pattern comes with a key or legend that explains the various symbols. Keep this handy while sewing to clarify any questions that might arise.
- Practice on Scraps : Before working with your actual fabric, practice any techniques, especially darts or pleats, on scrap fabric to perfect your technique.
Conclusion: Becoming Fluent in Pattern Symbols
Sewing pattern symbols may initially seem overwhelming, but once you become familiar with them, they will become second nature. They are the language of sewing and the key to creating precise, well‑made garments. By learning how to decode these symbols, you unlock the potential to confidently follow sewing patterns and create beautiful, custom‑made pieces.
So, next time you pick up a sewing pattern, take a moment to review the symbols, and refer back to this guide whenever you need clarity. With time and practice, you'll find that sewing patterns become your trusted companions in the journey of creating fashion that reflects your personal style while enhancing your skills.