Sewing is an art and a science, and one of the most crucial steps in making your own clothes is understanding the ins and outs of pattern paper. Whether you are using commercial patterns or creating your own from scratch, pattern paper serves as the foundation for your design. It's the medium through which you will translate your sewing dreams into reality. Grading, seam allowances, and fit adjustments are all key elements that determine how well your final garment fits and functions. In this article, we will explore these concepts in‑depth, providing you with a deeper understanding of pattern paper and how to use it effectively to achieve professional‑quality results.
What is Pattern Paper?
Pattern paper, often referred to as "tracing paper" or "drafting paper," is a specialized type of paper used in sewing to create and alter patterns for garments. It is typically semi‑transparent, which allows for easy tracing of existing patterns, making it ideal for beginners and professionals alike. Pattern paper can come in various weights and is often marked with grid lines to help with measurements and straight lines.
Grading: What is it, and How Does it Work?
Grading refers to the process of adjusting a pattern to fit different sizes. Whether you're working with commercial patterns or drafting your own, you will need to grade them to ensure they fit a variety of body types. Grading is essential if you want to make a garment that can be worn by multiple people with different body measurements.
The Process of Grading Patterns
Grading is essentially a series of small, incremental size changes that are made to specific points on a pattern. These changes are usually made along the bust, waist, hip, and length of a garment. However, grading is not just about resizing the entire pattern; it involves expanding or reducing measurements at certain points to ensure the garment will retain its proportions.
For example, when grading a pattern from a size medium to a size large, you would increase the width at key points such as the bust, waist, and hips, but you'd also adjust the length to maintain the overall shape and fit. This is typically done by adding or subtracting fabric in strategic areas.
Tools for Grading
Grading requires precision, so it's important to have the right tools. The following are commonly used in the grading process:
- Rulers: A curved ruler and a straight ruler are essential for grading. These allow you to adjust the shape and proportions accurately.
- French Curve: This tool helps when grading areas with curves, like the armholes or necklines.
- Grading Ruler: This specialized ruler is designed specifically for the grading process and is used to ensure accuracy when enlarging or reducing pattern pieces.
Grading Scale
Grading is typically done in standard increments based on industry standards. The scale for grading varies slightly from one pattern maker to another, but a typical grading rule is:
- Bust: 1" (2.5 cm)
- Waist: 1" (2.5 cm)
- Hip: 1.5" (3.8 cm)
- Length (for pants, dresses, etc.): 1" (2.5 cm) per size
When working with patterns, it's important to note that grading isn't always linear. For example, the difference in bust and hip measurements will often be larger than at the waist, so you may need to make more significant adjustments in certain areas. It's also crucial to keep the proportions and balance of the garment intact while grading.
Seam Allowances: What Are They and Why Do They Matter?
Seam allowances are the extra fabric that is added around the edges of pattern pieces to allow for sewing the pieces together. When a pattern is created, the edges of the pieces are often marked with a seam allowance, which allows the fabric to be sewn together without compromising the garment's fit or shape.
Typical Seam Allowances
Different patterns and types of garments will require different seam allowances. The most common seam allowances are:
- 1/4 inch (0.6 cm): This is typically used for delicate fabrics or when you want a narrow, neat seam. It's often found in fine or lightweight fabrics like silk or chiffon.
- 3/8 inch (1 cm): Often used for quilting or seams that need extra durability. It's common in many garment patterns.
- 1/2 inch (1.3 cm): This is a standard seam allowance used for most garment patterns. It provides a good balance between ease of sewing and durability.
- 5/8 inch (1.6 cm): This is the most common seam allowance used in commercial patterns. It provides enough space for adjustments and is easy to work with.
Why Are Seam Allowances Important?
Seam allowances are essential for several reasons:
- Fit Adjustments: If your seam allowances are too narrow, you may not have enough fabric to make necessary fit adjustments later on. On the other hand, large seam allowances can make it difficult to alter a garment once it's finished.
- Fabric Edge Protection: Seam allowances also prevent the fabric from unraveling at the edges, especially when the fabric is not finished or serged.
- Stitching Precision: Proper seam allowances help you stitch accurately, ensuring that seams line up correctly and the garment fits as intended.
How to Add Seam Allowances
When drafting your own pattern, you will need to add seam allowances around each edge of the pattern piece. To do this, you can either trace the outline of your pattern and then measure out the seam allowance or use a seam allowance ruler to add the desired width around the edges of the pattern.
When using commercial patterns, the seam allowances are typically included in the pattern, but it's always a good idea to double‑check to ensure they are present before cutting your fabric.
Fit Adjustments: Getting the Perfect Fit
A well‑fitting garment can make a huge difference in the final look and feel of your project. Fit adjustments refer to the modifications made to a pattern to suit an individual's body shape, size, and proportions. These adjustments can be made before or after cutting the fabric, depending on whether you're working with a commercial pattern or drafting your own.
Common Fit Adjustments
Here are some of the most common types of fit adjustments you may need to make:
- Shortening or Lengthening a Garment: This is often necessary for patterns that are made for a "standard" height. You may need to shorten or lengthen sleeves, pants, or skirts to match your body measurements.
- Adjusting the Bust, Waist, or Hip: If you have a larger or smaller bust, waist, or hips compared to the pattern's standard measurements, you can make adjustments to the fit in those areas by grading or altering the pattern.
- Adding Darts: Darts are often used to add shape to a garment and can be added at various points, such as the bust or waist, to provide a better fit.
- Alteration for Comfort: If your pattern has a lot of ease (extra space around the body), you may want to reduce the fit to create a more tailored look. Conversely, if the pattern is too tight, you can add extra room through grading or adding ease.
Fitting the Pattern
Before cutting your fabric, it's a good idea to create a mock‑up of your garment using inexpensive fabric (also called a muslin). This allows you to try on the pattern and make any necessary adjustments before committing to your final fabric. Once you're satisfied with the fit, you can transfer the changes to your original pattern paper.
Conclusion
Understanding grading, seam allowances, and fit adjustments is essential for creating garments that look great and fit well. Pattern paper serves as the blueprint for all of these adjustments, and knowing how to use it effectively will set you on the path to sewing success. Whether you're resizing a pattern, adjusting a fit, or simply ensuring you have enough fabric to make your garment, mastering these techniques will elevate your sewing skills and lead to beautifully finished projects.
Remember, sewing is a skill that improves with practice, so don't be afraid to experiment and make adjustments as needed. With these tools and techniques, you'll be able to create garments that not only fit perfectly but are also uniquely tailored to your style and body. Happy sewing!