Zippers are one of the most essential elements of modern fashion, functional not only for their practical purpose but also for their ability to enhance the aesthetic of a garment or accessory. However, selecting the right zipper can be a bit daunting given the variety of types, sizes, and materials available. Understanding how to choose the appropriate zipper for your project is key to ensuring both the functionality and the appearance of your creations.
In this article, we will delve into the different types of zippers, the factors to consider when selecting the right zipper size, and tips on when to use each type in your sewing projects.
Types of Zippers
Zippers come in various styles, each designed for specific uses. Understanding the types will help you choose the best option for your project.
1. Coil Zippers
Coil zippers are made from a spiral coil of nylon or polyester, which makes them flexible and lightweight. They are commonly used in a wide range of applications, from casual wear to technical garments.
- Advantages : Flexible, lightweight, and durable. Coil zippers are often quieter when they open and close, making them ideal for items that need a smooth, noise‑free operation.
- When to Use : Ideal for lightweight fabrics like cotton, silk, and polyester. Coil zippers are often used in casual wear, activewear, and outdoor gear.
2. Vislon Zippers
Vislon zippers are made of plastic teeth that are injected into the tape. The teeth are thicker and more rigid than coil zippers, which makes them stronger but also heavier.
- Advantages : Strong, durable, and resistant to corrosion. Vislon zippers are also more robust, making them ideal for heavy‑duty use.
- When to Use : Commonly used in jackets, outerwear, and waterproof gear. They are also found in some bags and heavy‑duty applications.
3. Metal Zippers
Metal zippers have teeth made from brass, aluminum, or nickel, which gives them a more polished, metallic appearance. They are often associated with vintage and high‑end fashion due to their durability and style.
- Advantages : Strong and durable with a classic aesthetic. Metal zippers tend to be more expensive but add a touch of sophistication.
- When to Use : Ideal for denim, leather, and high‑fashion garments. Metal zippers are typically used in jeans, jackets, and accessories like bags or wallets.
4. Invisible Zippers
Invisible zippers are designed so that the teeth are hidden behind the fabric. This gives the garment a sleek, seamless look.
- Advantages : Aesthetic and subtle, as the zipper is barely visible. Invisible zippers provide a clean finish, making them popular for formal and evening wear.
- When to Use : Perfect for formal dresses, skirts, and dresses made from light to medium‑weight fabrics. Invisible zippers are most commonly used in garments where the zipper should be concealed.
5. Two‑Way Zippers
Two‑way zippers are designed with two sliders, allowing the zipper to open from both ends. This is a convenient feature for items that need to be easily adjustable from either end.
- Advantages : Flexible and convenient, especially for larger items like jackets, bags, and tents.
- When to Use : Great for jackets, coats, sleeping bags, and large bags, where you may need to open or close from either direction.
6. Lapped Zippers
Lapped zippers are designed to have one side of the zipper tape covered by the fabric, creating a more discreet appearance. They are often used in applications where the zipper should not be visible, such as in formal wear or upholstery.
- Advantages : Provides a clean, neat finish. Lapped zippers are less noticeable and are a preferred choice for more professional, tailored looks.
- When to Use : Suitable for skirts, pants, and dresses, as well as upholstery projects where you want the zipper to blend into the background.
Zipper Sizes and How to Choose the Right One
Selecting the correct zipper size is crucial for both the functionality and appearance of your project. Zipper sizes are measured in inches, and this refers to the length of the zipper when fully closed. However, there are also different measurements for the size of the teeth, which will determine how the zipper fits with the fabric.
1. Length of the Zipper
The length of the zipper is the first consideration when selecting the right size. It should match the length of the opening in your garment or item.
- How to Measure : Measure the opening of the garment from top to bottom, where the zipper will go, and choose a zipper that is equal to or slightly longer than this measurement. You can always shorten a zipper if needed, but it's better to have a zipper that's slightly too long than one that's too short.
2. Teeth Size (Zipper Gauge)
Zipper gauges refer to the size of the teeth on the zipper, which influences the thickness and overall durability of the zipper.
- Standard Gauges :
When selecting a zipper, ensure the teeth size is appropriate for the thickness of the fabric. For lighter materials, smaller teeth are better, while thicker materials require larger teeth for durability.
3. Choosing the Right Zipper Based on Project Type
- Lightweight Fabrics (Cotton, Silk, Chiffon) : For lightweight fabrics, opt for a smaller gauge zipper (#3 or #4). Invisible zippers are often preferred as they provide a subtle and polished finish.
- Medium‑Weight Fabrics (Denim, Wool, Taffeta) : Medium‑weight fabrics work well with a #5 zipper. Both metal and coil zippers are commonly used here, depending on the aesthetic you're after.
- Heavy‑Duty Fabrics (Leather, Canvas, Corduroy) : For heavy‑duty fabrics, a #8 or #10 zipper is ideal. Metal or Vislon zippers are the best choices for these applications due to their strength and durability.
When to Use Each Type of Zipper
The right zipper type not only depends on fabric weight and aesthetic preference but also on the function of the garment or item.
1. For Casual Wear (Jeans, Jackets, Dresses)
- Recommended Zippers : Metal zippers for a vintage or rugged look, or coil zippers for a lighter, flexible option.
- Why : Metal zippers provide durability and a classic aesthetic for garments like jeans and jackets, while coil zippers work well for lighter fabrics used in dresses and casual tops.
2. For Formal Wear (Evening Gowns, Skirts, Suits)
- Recommended Zippers : Invisible zippers for their discreet finish and smooth look.
- Why : Invisible zippers allow for a seamless, elegant finish that doesn't detract from the fabric or design of the garment.
3. For Outdoor Gear (Coats, Bags, Tents)
- Recommended Zippers : Vislon zippers or two‑way zippers for their strength and water‑resistant properties.
- Why : Outdoor gear requires durable, weather‑resistant zippers that can withstand constant use and exposure to the elements. Two‑way zippers are especially useful for adjusting the garment or gear in multiple ways.
4. For Upholstery and Heavy‑Duty Projects
- Recommended Zippers : Large metal or Vislon zippers for their strength and ability to handle heavy fabrics like leather, canvas, and thick upholstery materials.
- Why : Heavy‑duty zippers are necessary for ensuring longevity and functionality when working with tough materials that undergo significant stress.
Conclusion
Choosing the right zipper is an essential part of any sewing project. By understanding the different types, sizes, and when to use them, you can ensure that your creations are both functional and visually appealing. Whether you're making a simple garment or a heavy‑duty outdoor item, the right zipper can make all the difference in the final result. So, take the time to select the perfect zipper for your project and enjoy the process of bringing your designs to life!