For many newcomers to the world of sewing, the most intimidating part isn't the actual sewing itself but understanding and following a pattern. Patterns are the roadmap for creating garments, accessories, and other sewing projects, and they can often feel like a secret language. Whether you're a complete beginner or someone who has been sewing for a while, decoding the basics of reading sewing patterns will help you feel more confident and capable when tackling your next project.
In this beginner's guide, we'll break down the essential elements of a sewing pattern and provide tips for understanding and using them effectively. By the end, you'll be ready to take on your first (or next) sewing project with ease and excitement.
1. Understanding the Pattern Envelope
When you first pick up a sewing pattern, whether it's from a store or online, the first thing you'll encounter is the pattern envelope. This contains important information about the pattern and the project you'll be making.
Key Information on the Pattern Envelope
- Pattern Number : Every pattern comes with a unique number, making it easy to reference when looking for a specific design.
- Size Range : Most patterns are available in multiple sizes, typically spanning several measurements. Make sure to choose the correct size based on your body measurements.
- Finished Garment Measurements : This is different from your body measurements. It tells you the actual dimensions of the finished garment, which helps ensure a proper fit.
- Recommended Fabrics : Patterns list the types of fabrics best suited for the project, such as cotton, denim, jersey, or linen. The right fabric choice is essential to getting the look and feel of the garment you want.
- Pattern Description : The envelope often includes a brief description of the pattern, such as the style of the garment (dress, top, skirt) and any unique features (like pleats, gathers, or zippers).
2. The Pattern Pieces
Inside the pattern envelope, you'll find several sheets of paper containing the pattern pieces. These are the templates you'll cut out and trace onto your fabric before sewing.
Types of Pattern Pieces
- Main Pieces : These are the key components of the project (e.g., front and back bodice, sleeves, skirt, etc.).
- Facings : These are pieces used to finish the raw edges of the fabric, like around necklines or armholes.
- Linings : Some patterns include a lining piece, which helps to create a clean finish inside the garment.
- Notches : These small markings on the pattern pieces help you align the fabric correctly during sewing. Notches typically indicate where to match seams or pleats.
- Grainlines : The grainline is an arrow marking the direction of the fabric's weave. Most fabrics have a specific grain that you need to follow for the best drape and fit. Grainlines are usually marked on the pattern pieces and should be aligned parallel to the selvedge edge of your fabric.
- Cutting Instructions : Each pattern piece will have a label showing how many pieces to cut from your fabric. For example, a pattern might say "Cut 2" to indicate that you need two pieces of that shape, usually for the front and back pieces.
3. The Legend
Most pattern manufacturers provide a "legend" or "key" on the pattern itself or within the pattern instructions. This key explains all of the symbols and markings that appear on the pattern pieces.
Common Pattern Symbols
- Cut on Fold : This symbol indicates that you should place the pattern piece along the fold of the fabric to create a symmetrical piece (like a front bodice).
- Darts : Darts are triangular folds sewn into the fabric to shape the garment and fit the body. They're often marked with a dashed line and small triangles.
- Seam Allowance : This is the extra fabric added to the edges of the pattern pieces, typically 1/4" or 5/8", that allows you to sew the pieces together. Make sure to check whether the pattern includes the seam allowance or if you need to add it.
- Button and Buttonhole Placement : For garments with buttons or snaps, the pattern will include markings showing where these should be placed.
- Pleats or Gathers : Patterns often include lines that indicate where fabric should be pleated or gathered, providing structure or volume to the design.
4. The Pattern Instructions
Once you've examined the pattern pieces, the next step is to look at the pattern instructions. These are typically printed on large sheets of paper or included as a booklet inside the pattern envelope. This is where the step-by-step process for creating the garment is outlined.
Breaking Down the Instructions
The pattern instructions will walk you through each step of the process, from cutting your fabric to stitching the pieces together. They usually break down the project into manageable sections, such as:
- Preparation : Instructions on preparing the fabric, cutting out the pieces, and marking the fabric (e.g., with fabric chalk or a washable marker).
- Sewing Steps : Detailed instructions on how to sew the pieces together, often broken down into smaller tasks such as attaching a collar, inserting a zipper, or finishing seams.
- Finishing : The final steps often involve hemming, pressing the seams, and adding any final details (such as buttons or embellishments).
Tips for Following Instructions
- Read Through First : Before you start cutting and sewing, read through the entire instruction booklet so you understand the flow of the project. This can help you avoid surprises later.
- Take Your Time : Especially for beginners, don't rush through the instructions. Break down each step and take your time to ensure accuracy.
- Use a Highlighter : As you go through the instructions, highlight the key steps to help keep track of your progress.
5. Adjusting the Pattern
One of the most common challenges beginners face is getting the right fit. Since most patterns are designed based on a general size chart, there may be a need for adjustments to fit your individual body.
Common Pattern Adjustments
- Lengthening or Shortening : If the garment is too long or too short, you can adjust the length by adding or removing length in key areas (such as the bodice or skirt).
- Fitting the Bodice : If the bodice doesn't fit perfectly, you can make alterations such as adjusting the bust, waist, or hips. This may involve adding or removing darts, adjusting side seams, or making other small changes.
- Grading Between Sizes: If you fall between sizes, it's common to "grade" between two sizes (e.g., choosing one size for the bust and another for the waist) to ensure a better fit.
Many patterns provide instructions for these common adjustments, but you can also find helpful guides online or in sewing books.
6. Fabric Preparation and Cutting
Once you've selected your pattern and fabric, it's time to get ready to cut. Preparing your fabric is a crucial step that can significantly affect the final result.
Fabric Preparation Steps
- Prewash Your Fabric : Many fabrics shrink when washed, so prewashing your fabric will ensure that your finished garment won't shrink after the first wash.
- Press Your Fabric : Iron your fabric before cutting to remove wrinkles and ensure that the pattern pieces lay flat.
- Cutting Layout : The pattern instructions will often include a diagram showing how to arrange the pattern pieces on the fabric. Pay attention to the grainline and make sure all pieces are oriented correctly.
7. Sewing Your Garment
After preparing the fabric and cutting out your pieces, it's time to sew. Start with simpler projects to get comfortable with sewing techniques like straight stitching, attaching sleeves, or sewing darts.
Helpful Tips for Beginners
- Use the Right Needle and Thread : Match your needle and thread to your fabric for the best results. For instance, use a ballpoint needle for knit fabrics and a universal needle for woven fabrics. Pair them with high‑quality thread.
- Press as You Go : Press seams and hems as you sew to ensure crisp, professional‑looking results.
- Take It Slow : Sewing can take time, especially in the beginning. Don't rush, and be patient with yourself.
Conclusion
Reading sewing patterns doesn't have to be daunting. By understanding the basics, such as the pattern envelope, the pattern pieces, and the instructions, you'll be able to take on sewing projects with confidence. Practice is key, and with each new project, you'll become more familiar with pattern reading and sewing techniques. Whether you're making a simple skirt or a complex dress, these foundational skills will help you create beautiful, well‑fitting garments. Happy sewing!