Sewing is a rewarding and creative craft that offers endless possibilities for creating custom clothing, accessories, and home décor. One of the most crucial elements of sewing is understanding the instructions provided on sewing patterns . These instructions, often filled with various symbols, marks, and notations, serve as a guide to help you assemble and stitch your project correctly. However, for many beginners, sewing pattern notations can be intimidating and confusing.
In this article, we will explore the most common symbols and notations found on sewing patterns, breaking them down into understandable parts so that you can confidently decode any pattern and bring your projects to life. Whether you're working on a simple shirt or an elaborate dress, understanding these markings is essential to achieving professional‑looking results.
The Basic Structure of a Sewing Pattern
Before diving into the specific notations, it's important to understand the general structure of a sewing pattern. Most patterns consist of:
- Pattern Pieces : These are the shapes that will be cut out of your fabric . Each piece corresponds to a specific part of the garment, such as the front, back, sleeves, or collar.
- Grainline : A line on the pattern that indicates the direction of the fabric's grain. Fabrics have a "grain" that runs in two directions---lengthwise (warp) and crosswise (weft). This grainline helps ensure the pieces are cut in the right direction to avoid distortion or improper fit.
- Notches : Small triangles or slashes on the edge of pattern pieces that help align them correctly when sewn together.
- Seam Allowance : The area between the pattern's stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric. This is where you sew the fabric pieces together.
Now, let's take a closer look at some of the most commonly used symbols and markings you'll encounter on your sewing pattern.
Grainline Symbol
The grainline symbol is one of the most essential markings on a sewing pattern. It typically consists of an arrow drawn along a straight line on the pattern. This line should be aligned with the fabric's grain when cutting the fabric pieces.
Why It's Important:
- Ensures that the fabric's weave runs in the correct direction.
- Helps prevent the fabric from stretching, puckering, or losing its shape.
When you cut out pattern pieces, the grainline should run parallel to the selvage edge (the finished edge of the fabric) for most fabrics. For certain fabrics, like plaids or stripes, the grainline might need to be adjusted to ensure the design is aligned correctly.
Notches and Cutting Lines
Notches are small marks on the edge of the pattern piece that act as guides for aligning fabric pieces when sewing. Notches can be either single or double, with single notches placed on one side of the pattern and double notches placed on the other side.
Notch Symbols:
- Single Notch : Indicates that this is the front of the fabric, or it's where pieces should align for a smooth seam.
- Double Notch : Often used on the back or to mark specific pattern features, like pleats or tucks.
Why They're Important:
- Help align pieces accurately.
- Ensure that the pattern pieces fit together correctly, especially when working with complicated designs like darts or pleats.
Stitching Lines and Seam Allowance
Stitching lines are marked along the edges of pattern pieces to indicate where the fabric will be sewn together. The seam allowance is the space between the stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric. It's important to note that not all patterns include seam allowance, as some designs expect you to add it yourself.
Seam Allowance Symbols:
- Standard Seam Allowance : This is usually 1/4", 3/8", or 5/8" and is indicated by lines along the edge of the pattern.
- No Seam Allowance : In some patterns, a "No Seam Allowance" marking might be shown. This means you need to add your own seam allowance as you cut out your pieces.
Why It's Important:
- The seam allowance allows for the stitching and any necessary adjustments (like letting out or taking in seams).
- Ensures consistent seam widths throughout the garment for a polished finish.
Darts and Pleats
Darts are wedge‑shaped folds sewn into the fabric to shape the garment, while pleats are folds of fabric that are sewn down in one spot to create texture. These markings typically consist of lines or arrows on the pattern.
Dart Symbol:
- Darts are represented by a series of short, broken lines, often with an arrow at the point where they will be sewn.
Pleat Symbol:
- Pleats are marked with parallel lines and often have arrows that show the direction in which they should be folded.
Why They're Important:
- Darts and pleats help shape the garment to fit the body.
- Proper folding and sewing of these features are essential for achieving a polished, professional‑looking garment.
Buttonholes and Button Placement
Buttonholes and buttons are essential for creating functional garments like shirts, blouses, or coats. Button placements are marked with a small square, often with an arrow or an "X" to indicate where the buttonhole or button should be placed.
Buttonhole Symbols:
- Buttonhole Marking : Usually a small rectangle or square with a dotted line showing where to make the buttonhole.
- Button Placement: A dot or small circle marks where the button should be sewn.
Why It's Important:
- Correctly placed buttonholes and buttons ensure the garment functions as intended.
- Ensures the buttons line up with the holes properly when the garment is worn.
Cutting Instructions
Some patterns provide specific instructions about how to cut the fabric, including whether to cut pieces on a fold , bias , or with nap . These markings are usually accompanied by arrows and lines to guide the fabric‑cutting process.
Cutting Instructions:
- Cut on the Fold : This marking indicates that you need to fold your fabric before cutting out the pattern piece, which creates a symmetrical shape without a side seam.
- Cutting on the Bias : This is marked by a slanted line that tells you to cut the fabric at a 45‑degree angle to the selvage for better drape.
- With Nap : Fabrics like velvet, corduroy, or fleece have a directional texture, and these fabrics must be cut in a specific direction for a consistent look.
Why It's Important:
- Ensures fabric pieces are cut in the correct direction, maintaining the integrity of the design.
- Important for fabrics with patterns, textures, or nap that can change in appearance based on the direction they are cut.
Symbols for Sleeve and Cuff Attachments
If your pattern includes sleeves, cuffs, collars, or other accessories, these components are often marked with specific symbols to indicate how they should be attached.
Sleeve Attachments:
- Set‑in Sleeve : Indicated with a circular symbol at the armhole to show where the sleeve is attached.
- Raglan Sleeve : Often shown with a curved line or slanted armhole line for this type of sleeve.
Cuffs, Collars, and Other Attachments:
- Cuffs : Usually marked with a short line or rectangle.
- Collars : Often indicated by lines showing how the collar should be sewn into the neckline.
Why It's Important:
- These markings ensure the sleeves and other components are attached correctly, resulting in a garment that fits properly.
Conclusion
Understanding sewing pattern notations is a key step in mastering the art of garment creation. By familiarizing yourself with the symbols for grainlines, notches, darts, button placements, and other essential details, you'll be able to follow patterns with confidence. These markings may seem overwhelming at first, but with practice, you'll soon see them as helpful guides that bring your designs to life.
By mastering these sewing pattern notations, you're not just creating clothes---you're also building a solid foundation of sewing knowledge that will help you approach even the most complex patterns with ease. So next time you pick up a pattern, take a moment to carefully review the symbols and markings, and you'll be well on your way to creating beautifully crafted, well‑fitted garments.