Creating well-fitting garments is an essential part of sewing, especially when it comes to plus-size figures. Traditional tailoring patterns often do not account for the unique proportions and curves of plus-size bodies, which can lead to ill-fitting garments. However, with some adjustments and techniques, you can adapt these patterns to achieve a flattering fit. Here's how to successfully modify traditional tailoring patterns for plus-size figures.
Understand Your Measurements
Before adapting any pattern, take accurate measurements of your body. The key measurements to focus on include:
- Bust : Measure around the fullest part of your bust.
- Waist : Measure at your natural waistline, typically just above your belly button.
- Hips : Measure around the fullest part of your hips.
- Back Length : Measure from the nape of your neck to your waist.
- Front Length : Measure from the center of your shoulder, over the bust, to your waist.
With these measurements, you can compare them to the sizing chart of the pattern you intend to use.
Choose the Right Pattern Size
Patterns typically come in a range of sizes, but they may not always align with your measurements. Selecting the right size based on your largest measurement (usually the bust or hips) is crucial. If you're between sizes, it's often best to choose the larger size and make further adjustments later.
Make Full Bust Adjustments
If your bust measurement is significantly larger than the pattern size, you may need to perform a full bust adjustment (FBA). This involves adding extra width and length to the bust area while maintaining the overall shape of the garment.
- Locate the Bust Point: Determine where the bust point is on the pattern.
- Cut the Pattern: Make a vertical cut from the bottom of the pattern to the bust point, then cut from the bust point to the top of the shoulder seam, being careful not to cut all the way through.
- Spread the Pattern : Open the cut to add the necessary amount (usually 1-2 inches, depending on the size) and blend the lines to maintain the shape of the armhole and side seam.
Adjust the Waist and Hip Areas
Plus-size figures often require adjustments in the waist and hip areas as well:
- Adding Width to the Waist : If you need more room at the waist, you can add extra width at the side seams or center back seams. This can be done by drawing a new line outward from the original seam line.
- Adjusting Hips : For additional ease at the hips, apply the same technique by adding width at the hip area. Ensure that the side seam remains smooth and blends into the waist adjustment.
Lengthen or Shorten as Needed
Depending on your height and torso length, you may need to adjust the length of the garment. If you find that the pattern is too short or long:
- Lengthening the Pattern : Cut the pattern at the designated lengthen/shorten lines (usually marked on the pattern) and spread apart to add the desired length.
- Shortening the Pattern : Fold up the pattern at the lengthen/shorten lines to reduce the length.
Modify Sleeves and Armholes
When altering patterns for plus-size figures, it's important to consider sleeves and armholes:
- Widening Armholes: If the armholes feel tight, you can deepen and widen them. Cut along the armhole seam and spread slightly to give additional ease.
- Adjusting Sleeves : For comfortable movement, you may need to widen the sleeves. Simply add width along the side seams, keeping in mind the desired fit (loose vs. fitted).
Consider the Overall Silhouette
The silhouette of the garment plays a crucial role in how flattering it looks. When adapting the pattern, think about:
- A-line vs. Fitted Styles : A-line styles tend to be more forgiving and flattering for plus-size figures. Consider using patterns that offer shapes that skim over curves rather than cling to them.
- Darts and Seams : Adding darts can help shape the garment more effectively to your body. Make sure to place darts in a way that they enhance your natural curves.
Test with a Muslin
Before cutting into your fashion fabric, make a test garment (muslin) using inexpensive fabric. This allows you to check the fit and make any necessary adjustments without wasting your main fabric.
- Fit Check : Try on the muslin and make notes of any areas that need alteration.
- Adjust Accordingly : Once you're satisfied with the fit of the muslin, transfer any changes back to your original pattern.
Conclusion
Adapting traditional tailoring patterns for plus-size figures requires a thoughtful approach and a good understanding of your unique measurements. By making adjustments for the bust, waist, hips, and overall silhouette, you can create garments that fit beautifully and enhance your shape. Remember, practice and patience are key, so don't hesitate to experiment and make modifications until you achieve the perfect fit. Happy sewing!