Sewing is a craft that comes with its own language. For those just beginning or even seasoned professionals, understanding the terminology used in sewing can greatly improve your skills and confidence. Whether you're taking on a small DIY project or embarking on a more advanced sewing venture, knowing the right words can make your process smoother and your finished products more polished.
This cheat sheet will cover essential sewing terms that every hobbyist and pro should know. By the end, you'll have a deeper understanding of the tools, techniques, and processes involved in this versatile craft.
Basic Sewing Terms
1. Seam
The most basic term in sewing, a seam refers to the line where two pieces of fabric are joined together by stitching. The type of seam depends on how the fabric is sewn and finished, but it's the foundation of most sewing projects.
2. Seam Allowance
The seam allowance is the area between the stitching line and the raw edge of the fabric. It's typically ¼ inch to 5/8 inch and ensures there is enough fabric to join the pieces together without compromising the fit of the garment or item.
3. Hem
A hem is the finished edge of fabric that is folded over and stitched to prevent fraying. It is often found at the bottom of skirts, pants, or sleeves. Hemming is an essential finishing touch on many projects.
4. Notch
Notches are small markings or cuts made into the fabric to indicate where pieces should be aligned or joined together. They are often used on patterns to help align seams or pockets and ensure proper assembly.
5. Basting
Basting is a temporary, long, and loose stitch used to hold fabric pieces together before they are permanently sewn. It can be done by hand or with a sewing machine and is often used when working with delicate fabrics.
Advanced Sewing Terms
1. Appliqué
Appliqué is a technique where a piece of fabric is sewn onto another fabric to create a design or decoration. This technique is commonly used in quilting and garment embellishment.
2. Bias
Bias refers to the direction of the fabric that is at a 45-degree angle to the grainline. Fabric cut on the bias has a natural stretch and drape, making it ideal for creating curves, like those in skirts, dresses, and necklines.
3. Darts
A dart is a folded, stitched section of fabric that shapes the fabric to fit around curves such as a bust or waist. Darts are common in tailored garments to provide a more structured, form-fitting shape.
4. French Seams
French seams are a method of sewing that encases the raw edges of fabric inside a double seam, giving a neat, professional finish that prevents fraying. It's commonly used in lightweight fabrics.
5. Fleece
Fleece is a soft, fluffy fabric that is often used in outerwear and cold‑weather garments. It's known for its warmth and softness, making it ideal for jackets, scarves, and blankets.
Sewing Tools and Equipment Terms
1. Rotary Cutter
A Rotary Cutter is a tool used for cutting fabric. It consists of a circular blade that rolls over the fabric, allowing for more precise cuts, especially on straight edges. It's often used in quilting and for cutting multiple layers of fabric.
2. Fabric Scissors
Fabric Scissors are specifically designed for cutting fabric. They have sharp, pointed blades that allow for precise cuts, and they are usually longer than regular scissors for better control. Never use regular scissors on fabric, as it can dull the blades.
3. Seam Ripper
A Seam Ripper is a small tool used for undoing stitches. It's an essential item for correcting mistakes and carefully removing stitches without damaging the fabric.
4. Iron and Ironing Board
An Iron is used for pressing fabric before or after sewing. It helps to smooth out wrinkles, set seams, and ensure a crisp, professional finish. An Ironing Board is the surface on which the fabric is pressed.
5. Thimble
A Thimble is a small metal or plastic cap worn on the finger to protect it when hand‑sewing, especially when pushing the needle through tough fabric.
Pattern and Fabric Terminology
1. Grainline
The grainline refers to the direction of the threads in the fabric. Understanding grainline is crucial when cutting fabric pieces because it affects the drape, stretch, and fit of the finished product. The lengthwise grain runs parallel to the selvedge edge, while the crosswise grain runs perpendicular to it.
2. Selvage
The selvage is the finished edge of a fabric that doesn't fray. It is typically more tightly woven and is often used as a reference when cutting fabric.
3. Cut-on-the-Fold
Cut-on-the-fold refers to a pattern piece that is placed on the fabric with its edge aligned with the fold of the fabric, eliminating the need for cutting two pieces for symmetrical items like skirts or dresses.
4. Interfacing
Interfacing is a material used to reinforce or stiffen certain parts of a garment, such as collars, cuffs, and waistbands. It comes in fusible (which sticks to fabric when ironed) and non‑fusible forms.
5. Muslin
Muslin is a lightweight cotton fabric often used for making mock‑up versions of patterns. It allows sewists to test out the fit and design before cutting into more expensive fabric.
Sewing Machine Terms
1. Tension
The tension refers to how tight or loose the thread is on your sewing machine. Correct tension ensures that the stitches are even and that there is no puckering or loose threads. Adjusting the tension is crucial for different fabrics and stitch types.
2. Bobbin
A Bobbin is a small spool of thread that sits under the sewing machine needle. The machine pulls thread from the bobbin to create stitches. Bobbins need to be wound properly to avoid uneven stitching.
3. Presser Foot
The Presser Foot is the part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric in place while you sew. There are different types of presser feet for various sewing techniques, such as zipper feet, walking feet, or buttonhole feet.
4. Stitch Length
The stitch length refers to the length of each stitch produced by your sewing machine. Shorter stitches are generally used for finer fabrics, while longer stitches are better for heavier materials.
5. Feed Dogs
The feed dogs are small, serrated pieces located under the sewing machine needle plate that move the fabric through the machine while sewing. They are responsible for feeding the fabric evenly.
Sewing Stitches Terminology
1. Straight Stitch
The straight stitch is the most common and basic stitch, where the needle moves in a straight line to create a uniform seam. It's used for most general sewing tasks.
2. Zigzag Stitch
The zigzag stitch creates a zigzag pattern and is used for finishing edges, preventing fraying, and adding stretch to seams. It's also used for appliqué and decorative stitching.
3. Blind Hem Stitch
The blind hem stitch is a stitch used to hem fabric so that the stitching is nearly invisible from the outside. It is commonly used for hems on garments like trousers or skirts.
4. Overlock Stitch
An overlock stitch is used for finishing the edges of fabric to prevent fraying. It's often done using a serger machine, but many sewing machines can also do a variation of it with a zigzag stitch.
5. Buttonhole Stitch
The buttonhole stitch is a reinforced stitch that creates a small opening in fabric to allow for a button to pass through. It's commonly found on shirts, jackets, and coats.
Conclusion
Mastering the language of sewing opens up new possibilities for creating beautiful, personalized pieces of work. Whether you're a complete beginner or an experienced sewist, understanding the terms listed here will allow you to confidently discuss projects, troubleshoot issues, and learn from others in the sewing community. With this cheat sheet in hand, you'll be better equipped to tackle your next sewing challenge and enjoy the creative process along the way.