Sewing is a versatile and rewarding craft that opens up a world of creativity and self‑expression. Whether you're crafting a new wardrobe, reupholstering a chair, or creating a custom home décor piece, understanding the terminology is essential to mastering the art. The sewing world is rich with unique terminology---many of which might sound foreign or confusing to newcomers.
In this article, we'll take a deep dive into common sewing jargon, from 'notions' to 'selvedge.' Whether you're a beginner looking to decode your sewing pattern or an experienced seamstress who wants to brush up on your vocabulary, this glossary of terms will help you feel more confident with your sewing projects.
Notions
When people talk about "notions" in sewing, they aren't referring to abstract ideas or concepts. In the world of sewing, notions are the small tools and accessories that are essential for completing a project. Notions include a wide variety of items, and each serves a specific purpose.
Common notions include:
- Pins and Needles : To hold fabric in place and sew the pieces together.
- Threads : Used to stitch fabric together.
- Zippers : A fastening method.
- Buttons : For closures on garments.
- Elastic : Often used for waistbands or cuffs.
- Bias tape : A strip of fabric used for edging seams.
Understanding the different notions you'll need for your project is crucial for sewing success, as they are the tools that help bring your vision to life.
Selvedge (or Selvage)
Selvedge refers to the self‑finished edge of woven fabric, typically running along the length of the fabric. This edge is formed during the weaving process to prevent the fabric from fraying or unraveling. Selvedges are typically more tightly woven and may have a slightly different texture compared to the rest of the fabric.
Why it matters:
- Fabric Cutting : When you cut fabric for your project, you'll usually want to avoid using the selvedge edge unless you're making something like a quilt or a fabric pouch where the texture can be an interesting feature.
- Width Measurement : Fabrics are sold by the yard, and the width of fabric often includes the selvedge. Always measure the usable fabric after excluding the selvedge edges.
Bias
In the world of fabric, bias refers to the direction of the fabric that runs at a 45‑degree angle to the selvedge edges. The bias is important because fabric cut along the bias has more stretch and flexibility than fabric cut along the grain (the lengthwise or crosswise direction). This property is particularly useful for creating curves, such as armholes or necklines, as well as for making bias tape.
Why bias matters:
- Drapability : The bias allows fabric to hang more fluidly, making it ideal for dresses, skirts, or garments that require a more fluid look.
- Stretch : You'll need to handle fabric cut on the bias carefully, as it can stretch more easily. Always pin carefully and use the right amount of tension while sewing.
Grainline
The grainline refers to the direction of the threads in the fabric. It is divided into three categories:
- Lengthwise grain (also called the warp ): The threads that run parallel to the selvedge, typically the strongest direction of the fabric.
- Crosswise grain (also called the weft ): The threads that run perpendicular to the lengthwise grain.
- Bias grain : As previously mentioned, it's the 45‑degree angle between the lengthwise and crosswise grains.
Grainline is crucial because cutting fabric in the wrong direction can affect the fit, drape, and durability of your garment. Patterns often include a grainline marking to indicate the proper orientation of the fabric.
Seam Allowance
Seam allowance is the extra fabric on the edge of a pattern piece that allows you to sew the pieces together. Typically, seam allowances range from ¼ inch to 5/8 inch, though this can vary depending on the pattern or personal preference. For a garment to fit correctly, it's important to use the specified seam allowance.
Key considerations:
- Consistency : Ensure that your seam allowance is even throughout the project, as uneven seam allowances can cause puckering or misalignment.
- Finishing seams : After sewing, you may need to trim the seam allowance and finish the raw edges to prevent fraying. Techniques like serging, French seams, or using pinking shears are common ways to finish seams.
Fusible Interfacing
Fusible interfacing is a type of fabric used to add structure and stiffness to certain parts of a garment or project. It's coated with an adhesive on one side, which bonds to the fabric when pressed with an iron. Interfacing is commonly used in areas like collars, cuffs, waistbands, or the inside of handbags.
Why you need it:
- Stability : It prevents the fabric from becoming too floppy or losing its shape.
- Customization : It comes in different weights (light, medium, heavy), so you can choose the appropriate type for your project.
Basting
Basting is a temporary stitch used to hold fabric pieces together before final stitching. It's usually done with long, loose stitches that can be easily removed once the project is finished. Basting can be done by hand or with a sewing machine using a longer stitch length.
When to use basting:
- Sewing difficult fabrics : When working with fabrics that are difficult to pin, such as slippery materials, basting holds the pieces in place without shifting.
- Fitting adjustments : It's useful for temporarily joining fabric pieces to check for fit before committing to permanent stitches.
Walking Foot
A walking foot is a sewing machine attachment that helps feed the fabric through the machine evenly, particularly useful when sewing multiple layers of fabric or thicker fabrics. The walking foot has a set of feed dogs that move in sync with the sewing machine's own feed dogs, preventing the fabric from shifting.
Why it's useful:
- Even stitching : It ensures that the top and bottom layers of fabric move together, reducing bunching or puckering.
- Layered fabrics : It's perfect for quilting or sewing with multiple layers of fabric, like when making a quilt sandwich or working with knits.
Overlocking (Serger)
An overlocker (or serger ) is a machine used to sew, cut, and finish raw fabric edges in one step. It's commonly used to create professional‑looking seams and prevent fabric from fraying. Overlocking machines typically use multiple threads to form the stitch, and they're fast and efficient at finishing seams.
Why it's valuable:
- Professional finish : It creates a neat, clean edge on fabric and garments.
- Speed : Overlockers can sew faster than standard sewing machines, making them great for heavy‑duty or time‑sensitive projects.
French Seams
A French seam is a type of enclosed seam where the raw edges are sewn inside the seam itself, resulting in a clean and durable finish. It's often used in lightweight or delicate fabrics that might fray easily.
Steps for making a French seam:
- First seam : Sew the fabric pieces with wrong sides together, using a narrow seam allowance.
- Trim and press : Trim the seam allowance, then press it flat.
- Second seam : Fold the fabric so the right sides are together and sew again, enclosing the raw edges inside.
French seams are an elegant and professional way to finish seams, particularly in garments like dresses or blouses where the inside finish matters.
Pressing vs. Ironing
While the terms pressing and ironing are often used interchangeably, they have distinct meanings in sewing. Pressing refers to gently lifting the iron and placing it down on the fabric to press out wrinkles and shape seams. Ironing , on the other hand, involves moving the iron back and forth over the fabric.
Why pressing matters:
- Seam definition : Pressing is essential to set seams, especially after each step of sewing, to create a clean, crisp finish.
- Fabric shaping : Pressing helps shape the fabric into the desired form, whether it's for pleats, darts, or hems.
Conclusion
Understanding sewing jargon is an essential part of becoming a skilled seamstress or tailor. While terms like "selvedge," "bias," and "notions" might seem confusing at first, they are all part of the rich vocabulary that will empower you to tackle any sewing project with confidence. Whether you're making clothes, accessories, or home décor items, knowing the right terms will make the process smoother and more enjoyable.
By familiarizing yourself with these common sewing terms, you'll be better prepared to read sewing patterns, follow tutorials, and engage with the sewing community. So, the next time you embark on a new project, you'll have the vocabulary to back up your creativity and craftsmanship.